Monday, October 31, 2011

The Koh Sekiguchi Museum in Yuzawa

Tucked away on the first floor of the Sporea Yuzawa hotel is the Koh Sekiguchi Museum. Koh Sekiguchi is one of the leading proponents of "Kirie" which is the art of making pictures out of cut paper. He is a native of neighboring Gunma prefecture and has won recognition across the globe for his art.


Sporea Yuzawa has a permanent exhibition of a selection of his works which has been on display since 2005. Each one is carefully crafted and he is particularly well known for his depiction of children and women, and his pictures of the changing of the seasons will resonate with anyone who has visited Snow Country.

For more detail into Koh Sekiguchi's life and works there is plenty to look at on his web gallery which should certainly inspire you to check out these beautiful works in real life.

If you decide to check out the museum you should probably take a bit of time to enjoy the baths at Sporea Yuzawa. They have a roof top spa with one of the most stunning views of any outdoor bath in the region.

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Saturday, October 29, 2011

Naoe Kanetsugu Heritage Museum

We've mentioned Naoe Kanetsugu before - one of Snow Country's most famous sons who had a bit of a resurgence recently as the subject of an NHK drama. He was born just outside modern day Muikamachi and spent much of his life in and around Snow Country. For those interested in his life and times there is a heritage museum located in Zenibuchi Park.



The museum itself is a recent addition to the park and the building was moved from a different area to its currently location. Its thick wooden beams demonstrate the high level of craftmanship that was employed to construct the traditional houses and it is supposed to be a similar building to the birthplace of Kanetsugu.

Inside there are displays of weapons, armor, manuscripts and household artifacts from Kanetsugu's period which help you get a feel for life in samurai times. Behind the museum is Mount Sakado which was an important fortified dwelling in his day.

The park too is a beautiful location. In spring it is one of the best places in the area to check out the cherry blossoms and is always full of people enjoying picnics. It also has a large pond ( in which Kanetsugu's father is supposed to have drowned) and lovely landscaped gardens. The hiking trail up Sakado is just a short stroll away




Friday, October 28, 2011

Rafting on the Shinano - November 5 & 6

Minakami is well known as the outdoor adventure capital of Snow Country but there are plenty of other areas offering adventures. With several major rivers running through Snow Country there are great places to raft all over the place. The Shinano is Japan's longest river, and one of Minakami's best known rafting outfits is heading over there for a weekend of rafting on November 5th and 6th.


Spring rafting is the best season for rafting in Minakami but at other times of the year Canyons head further afield to search out the rapids and whitewater. Autumn is a great time to head down the Shinano with stunning views of the changing leaves, warmer temperatures than the Tone and some great sections of water.

The tour kicks off right on the border of Nagano and follows the river back into Niigata. A delicious lunch of local ingredients is enjoyed on the banks of the river, which also gives you the chance to catch your breath after the high thrills of the morning, and then it is back on the water. The day finishes off with the requisite soak in a natural thermal spring bath.

A adrenaline-packed way to spend an autumn weekend.

Thursday, October 27, 2011

Forest Therapy in Tsunan

When many people think of Japan they think of hi-tech, big cities but if you venture away from the sprawling metropolis you soon find yourself in areas of great natural beauty and tradition. Many people come to Snow Country to get away from the fast pace and stresses of modern urban life and rediscover the beauty of nature.

One initiative that is marketing itself in this vein is the Forest Therapy Road in Tsunan. It is a beech forest with walking trails that offers relaxing strolls as you immerse yourself in the peace and tranquility of your surroundings.


This beech forest offers beautiful walks with stunning scenery that offers different views throughout the four seasons. The peaceful atmosphere and fresh air will soon have you forgetting the smog, hustle and bustle of the cities and have you yearning for a simpler life closer to nature. There are also guided tours available at certain times if you are looking for some local knowledge.


The forest and its hikes have been featured on television programs which attest to the therapeutic effects of time spent among the beech treees. After a relaxing hike through the forest why not head to one of the local onsen to complete the R&R experience? There are also guided tours available at certain times.

Wednesday, October 26, 2011

Najomon - Folk Craft in Tsunan

Najomon is one of those great institutions that is keeping the past alive and keeping people in touch with their history and culture. They have a broad range of programs that are very hands-on and are divided into different categories.

The Jomon Experience - the skills you learn in this area are making earthenware trinkets and charms, weaving and experience life in Jomo times. There are traditional wood and straw shelters from the Jomon period and you can try to make a fire the way it was done back in the day which is a really satisfying challenging.


The Folk Experience concentrates on other traditional crafts from Snow Country. Staw weaving was an important skill that provided many of the essentials of day to day life. Paper making and dyeing are other skills you can try your hand at.


The Agriculture Experience - Agriculture is an important way of life in Snow Country and you can learn more about its place in history. Rice is a major crop in these parts and you can take part in the traditional method of harvesting as well as use some of the tools that you have seen in the museums in the area.


Tsunan is a beautiful area and The Nature Experience let you explore the environment, its plants and animals. Watching the fireflies is a great summer experience or winter lets you head out on snowshoes.

The Craft Experience is a great one for the kids. Use wood, ceramics, nuts, gourds and twigs to create many different works of art. There are examples for you to copy or let your creative juices flow





The Food Experience is a personal favorite as you get to eat the fruits of your labor. All the different things you can make have been staples of the area for ages. Using traditional tools you will get to make  treats that are still enjoyed in Snow Country to this day - sasadango, ambo, soba as well as baking with rice powder and flour.

There is a wealth of experience to keep you entertained in Najomon and with so many different things to choose from there is sure to be something for the whole family.






Tuesday, October 25, 2011

Takaragawa Onsen

Snow Country is blessed with an abundance of hot springs and there are several that are well known across the whole of Japan. Two of these are Hoshi Onsen in Sarugakyo, and Kaikake Onsen in Mikuni which we have mentioned previously. Another great onsen that any connoisseur of volcanic hot springs should pay a visit to is Takaragawa Onsen, close to Minakami.

This is the largest outdoor natural hot spring bath in Japan and often appears on the list of top ten most desirable destinations in this country for foreign visitors. It is an amazing experience with bathers getting a true feel for the Japanese onsen customs and being able to enjoy the stunning views and nature around it.


Like many of the top onsen it has a long history, with the baths having a reputation for offering curative and restorative effects to those that made the effort to find it out. Even today it is quite isolated so it must have been quite a feat to get there back in the day and would have made the experience even more enjoyable when you finally made it to the soothing waters.


It is slightly unusual in that many of the outdoor areas are mixed with men and women sharing the same baths (though unlike the normal onsen you are allowed to wear your towel to preserve your modesty.) There are also uni-sex areas if you don't like the idea of mixed bathing. The outdoor onsen really are the highlight of Takaragawa so it is well worth going outside for a soak.



There is an amazing traditional ryokan at Takaragawa aswell so if you are looking for the complete experience, an night here with the onsen, great cuisine and comfy futon on the tatami mat floor will make for a very memorable stay.

Monday, October 24, 2011

Yuzawa. Not to be confused with Yuzawa.

Walking through Echigo-Yuzawa Station the other day there were some large illuminated pictures. Turns out that they are on loan from Yuzawa town in Akita prefecture. Each year, this town in northern Japan has a festival where a street is decorated with this huge pictures over Tanabata. The pictures themselves are scenes from the Tanabata legend. This festival has been going on for hundreds of years and is still enjoyed by residents of Yuzawa (Akita) to this day.



It can be pretty confusing having two towns so far apart with the same name and hopefully you won't make the mistake of heading to one when you should be at the other one. It would be a time-consuming mistake to make. Thankfully Yuzawa in Snow Country has its own bullet train whose station name is Echigo-Yuzawa on the Joetsu Line. (Echigo is the old name for the region and crops up often in place names.)

When you head up to Yuzawa this winter for some skiing or snowboarding, make sure you go to the right one!

Sunday, October 23, 2011

Historical Snow Country - Hokuetsu Seppu

Hokuetsu Seppu is a book from the 1830s recounting what life was like for people of that age living in an area of heavy snowfall. The title of the book means "Snow Tales from the Hokuetsu Region" which is smack in the middle of modern Snow Country. There is an English translation of this early work and it is a fascinating read.


It gives you an insight into the day to day life of Snow Country residents, their way of life, their folk tales and their struggle to survive. Things are very different today but you can still pick up on aspects that have been passed down through the ages. For anyone that has lived here for a winter the constant struggle to keep your house clear of snow will be a familiar refrain. You realize how easy we have it in this day and age. If you are heading this way it is definitely a recommended read and if you subsequently visit one of the historical museums in this area you will easily recognize some of the tools and clothing. Hokuetsu Seppu does a great job of bringing those time to life.

There are plenty of illustrations throughout the book including a great series of early studies of snow flakes.


Inspiration for the Snow Country Region logo perhaps?

Saturday, October 22, 2011

Doai Station - deep underground

Snow Country is home to some pretty unusual tourist attractions. One of the most noteworthy though is its famous station - Doai. All things train related are pretty popular around here, especially the steam engine that comes to Minakami. If you carry further on up the Joetsu Line from Minakami to Echigo-Yuzawa you will soon reach Doai Station. Should you come from the other direction, it is your ordinary JR station, situated at the base of Mount Tanigawa. However, heading north the line actually goes deep under the mountain and that is where you will find the station. Getting off the train you will have to negotiate 462 steps to get back up to the surface.



It's an incredible feat of engineering and plenty of people come to have a look at it. It is fantastically cool in summer but once you walk all the way up or down, it'll soon warm you up.

Stood at the top of the stairs you have a great view down into the depths.


Many keen hikers who are coming up from the capital to tackle Mount Tanigawa (to tick it off their list of the 100 Famous Peaks) have to start their ordeal from the bottom of these stairs - a pretty good way to get warmed up for the hike ahead.

If you don't fancy the climb up the stairs, stay on the train and it will take you out of Gunma prefecture and into Niigata prefecture through the Shimizu Tunnel. This is the tunnel mentioned at the start of Yasunari Kawabata's Snow Country with the memorable sentence about the train coming out of the tunnel and the protagonist finding himself in Snow Country.



Friday, October 21, 2011

Hakkai San Firewalking - October 20th

It was a beautiful day for the fire walking at Hakkai San yesterday. Clear blue skies and the leaves starting to change their colors in the surrounding mountains.


It is a Buddhist festival and walking across the hot coals guarantees health and happiness for you family and loved ones. 

Plenty of people turned out for this festival which is held on October 20th every year, with organisers saying there were around 5,000 people turning out to watch or take part.


I wonder what happens if it rains?


Thursday, October 20, 2011

Autumn Colors at Tanigawadake Ropeway

The autumn colors have really come on in the last few weeks though they are not at there best yet so plenty of time to make it up to Snow Country to check them out in their full glory. As you look around the surrounding mountains at the moment that are splashes of vivid reds, yellows and oranges among the green. Another fantastic location to get the most out of the seasonal beauty is Tanigawadake Ropeway. This ropeway runs year round and is a popular stop on the tourist trail around Snow Country.


In summer and autumn it is the hopping off point for hikers who are hiking up to the top of Mount Tanigawa which is one of Japan's Famous 100 Peaks. In winter and spring it is the home of the Tenjindaira Ski Resort which is usually the first to open in the Minakami area and the last to shut. In a normal year the ski season here starts in November and finishes in May.



The ropeway itself takes you up almost 600 metres to 1,320 and the base of the Tenjin ski resort. From there you have a great view back down in the valley and have the choice to go a bit higher, or head out on various hiking trails. If you are feeling lazy though you can just kick back in the restaurant and stare out of the picture windows at the views below.


Wednesday, October 19, 2011

Weaving in Shiozawa

As previously mentioned weaving was traditionally an important cottage industry in Snow Country and the making of kimonos was an important part of life. Through October and until November 22nd some of these traditional handiworks will be on display in Shiozawa. Take a stroll along the recently renovated Shoizawa Bokushidori and over 30 shops are displaying kimono that were produced in the area and are family heirlooms.


It is a great opportunity to see pieces of history that are not normally on display and they offer an interesting insight into the past. You can also check out the museum for a bit more detail on the weaving and spinning, and they have a working loom and other artifacts relating to the craft.



They also sell material that has been woven in this area as it is still being produced today. Many places you go will have small squares of material for sale. A popular souvenir you can buy is a "furoshiki" - it is a small piece of cloth used to wrap a lunch box, and is often brightly colored or with an interesting pattern. It is a great option in this day and age as it does away with the need for a disposable bag.



Friday, October 14, 2011

Early Season Skiing in Snow Country

We know it is still autumn and there is plenty of time to go before the winter season starts, but with the first snow falling up high the other day, the drop in the temperature and the appearance of some winter adverts around the place, it is hard not to start to get a little bit excited.

If you are like us, it has been far too long since you strapped on your skis or board and you are counting the days until you get back on the snow. To help your countdown, here are the first places that open up each winter around Snow Country. These are the planned opening dates so are subject to weather conditions (but we are putting our money on a big snow year with an early start this year.)


Okutadami Maruyama - Saturday 19th November

Kagura - Wednesday 23rd November

Tenjindaira - TBC (but they usually try to open at the end of November)

Just over a month to wait if you are looking forward to winter....

Wednesday, October 12, 2011

Yuzawa Harvest Festival - October 16

It is still harvest time in Snow Country and the harvest festivals continue. They are a time honored tradition in rural Japan and a great chance for the local population to get together and enjoy the bounty of the land. Snow Country produces lots of great crops, the most famous being the Koshihikari rice and on Sunday October 16th it is Yuzawa's turn to celebrate with their matsuri in the Chuo Park.



It is a great day out and even made it onto a current affairs program last year. There is lots to eat and drink, and you will get a real taste of the terroir of the area. Rice features in many of its forms - rice balls, mochi and sake to name but a few - and other local delicacies will be on offer.


The park itself is a beautiful location and sure to be full of families out to enjoy the activities, games and stalls gathered there for the Harvest Festival.

Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Bungy Jumping in Minakami

Short of ways to terrify yourself? If so, head down to the bungy bridge in Minakami, get yourself strapped to a bunch of rubber bands and hurl yourself off a bridge. Bungy jumping was invented by crazy people in New Zealand and is making a hit over in Japan. Minakami boasts Japan's only bridge bungy over the Tone River, and if you weren't too terrified, you get to enjoy a stunning view of the surrounding mountains, the river gurgling away 40 meters below you and tiny little rafters looking up at you. Fear not, as they are going to bigger very quickly as you plummet to the river below. With a bit of luck the bungy cord will do its job and bounce you back up the way you came.


The bungy jumping operation is run by Bungy Japan and runs from spring to mid-November, so still time to see if you have what it takes...

Monday, October 10, 2011

Ryo Ishikawa Museum

Ryo Ishikawa, Japan's young golfing superstar, has his range of souvenirs and memorabilia for sale in Echigo Yuzawa Station. This might seem a bit strange considering he is from Saitama prefecture not Snow Country, but Yuzawa has become a hotbed of Ishikawa fandom. Tucked away beside the Yuzawa Kogen Ropeway is Risu No Ie which houses a Ryo Ishikawa Museum - not bad going having your own memorial museum before you are legal old enough to drink.


There are a whole collection of photos of the young star, outfits he has worn and things he has used as he is growing up and during his bright career as well as some trophies.


Best of all though is a veritable cottage industry in Ryo memorabilia. A cartoon version on his face appears on lanyards, golf balls, candies, ball markers, putting practice cups - you name it..... There is also a small, cuddly Ryo-kun doll. If you know a fan, then you can stock up on a huge array of goods as well as picking up an autographed picture.

Rumour on the street is that he comes up to Yuzawa to do a bit of cross country skiing when he is back in Japan over winter, so keep your eyes peeled next time you are out on the Xcountry course. You never know who you might bump into...



Sunday, October 9, 2011

Classic Cars in Snow Country

A bit of a treat today for classic car lovers as the La Festa Rally roars through Snow Country.






Most of the towns get a look in with the official route heading from Nagano into Niigata, over the mountain and back down into Gunma. So in terms of Snow Country that is through Sakae and Tsunan, into Tokamachi, through Yuzawa and into Minakami.

The line up has some real gems and the photographers have been out in force capturing shots of Bugattis, Rollers, Bentleys and other vintage cars.


The rally continues for the next couple of days past Fuji, Hakone, Yokahama and ending up back in Harajuku on Tuesday. Not a bad way to spend a long weekend!




Saturday, October 8, 2011

Outdoor Onsen - Rotemburo

Snow Country has masses of hot spring sources and soaking in one of these natural volcanic hot springs is one of the joys of visiting this area. Each water source has its own chemical composition with resulting benefits for the skin and body. Another great favorite that is worth tracking down is the outdoor onsen, otherwise known as the rotemburo.


There is something magical about being in a hot spring outside, especially when the snow is falling. The outside air temperature is cold but you are toasty warm up to your ears in hot water. Admiring the natural scenery or the perfectly sculptured garden just helps you relax further.

There are many places with rotemburo to check out. Most ryokan will have one and specialist onsen are likely to have several different types for you to enjoy. The changing of the seasons from an onsen are a joy to behold, whether it be the autumn colors, snowcapped peaks, cherry blossoms or the greens of summer.

Wednesday, October 5, 2011

Tashiro Ropeway for Autumn Colors

It is definitely autumn here in Snow Country now. The first snow dusted the top of Kagura, Hakkaisan and Tanigawadake a couple of days back, the rice is being harvested and autumn fruit is back in the supermarkets.Everywhere you look in the mountains, the early leaves are starting to turn and the deep greens are starting to be dotted with reds and yellows. It is a stunning change and one of the most beautiful times of year in in Snow Country - a vibrant blaze of colour before the white blanket descends.


We mentioned different ways of checking out the autumn displays and we have another one for you. The Tashiro Ropeway is a large cable car that runs skiers and boarder up to the slopes of Tashiro resort, between Kagura and Naeba. It whisks you up 400 metres higher in about 10 minutes and both the ride up, and the view from the top offer fantastic views.

From 8th October to 6th November, prime autumn colours season, the Tashiro Ropeway and the Naeba Dragondola will be linked up by bus for a great scenic circuit. Start at one of the stations, ride either the Ropeway or Dragondola and then walk the 30 minutes to the next one - a word to the wise - it is downhill from the top of the ropeway to the Dragondola Station. Take the Dragondola first and you have an uphill walk to Tashiro. The base of the two are joined by a shuttle bus for you to complete the loop.


Tuesday, October 4, 2011

Vita Magazine in Yuzawa

Himawari are a real estate agency in Yuzawa town on the east side of the station. They publish a magazine with a guide to all the local restaurants and events, and although it is only in Japanese, it is a useful resource if you are in the area. You'll find it in the station, outside Himawari or dotted around town.


The staff give their recommendations of where you should eat and most restaurants have a discount coupon in the magazine that will get you something if you are eating there.

Himawari specialise in resort mansions and apartments. During the Bubble Period when skiing was the thing to do in the winter, resorts and big resort mansions were popping up anywhere there was space. As you drive into Yuzawa today you can see the slopes dotting the hills and big apartment buildings in rather odd places. Since the crash the price of these flats has been steadily coming down as people do away with their holiday pads and second homes, and they can now be picked up for a song. Himawari have the low down on all the latest offerings and the Vita magazine has a list of what is available. Interesting to browse, and if you are in the market for a pad close to the snow for winter, or a country retreat to escape the city heat during summer, look no further - there are some incredible bargains to be had.

Monday, October 3, 2011

Fire Walking at Hakkai San - October 20th

Rural Japan has many interesting festivals that offer a unique insight into Japanese culture. Snow Country is no exception and has a calendar full of interesting events, from newly weds being thrown down a hill to semi-naked men trying to battle their way into a shrine.

Tuesday October 20th sees another interesting local festival with the fire walking at Hakkai San. Hakkai has long been regarded as a sacred mountain and its shrine is seen as an especially powerful area.



This is a festival that takes place in Spring and Autumn and is an amazing sight. Cedar wood is burnt until there is a bed of red hot coals and then Shinto devotees walk barefoot over them guaranteeing the health and safety of their friends and family. It is not only limited to believers but the general public too can put their faith to the test and take a stroll across the coals. This is probably not one for the faint-hearted but your loved ones would be impressed to see you putting your body on the line for their well-being.



Even if you don't fancy the heat of the fire walking, it is a great festival and a fantastic one to watch.


Sunday, October 2, 2011

New Rice Season

It is officially harvest time and the new season rice is out there to be enjoyed. Snow Country is proud to produce such high quality rice and visitors to the region are always keen to see what the fuss is about. Try it and you will see.


There is a campaign running at the moment to let people try some traditionally cooked Koshihikari rice fresh from the harvest. Lots of shops and accommodations are participating so if you are in Snow Country, pick up a leaflet with a map and head along to your favorite location to try the rice. You won't be disappointed.

If you see one of these contraptions you know there is likely to be delicious rice underneath and you will probably be able to pick up the scent as you approach.

There is a prize draw you can enter as part of this campaign and if you are lucky enough to win, you could be heading home with a 2 kg bag of Koshihikari.